Гидроудар при закрытии крана как исправить

Поставил МП трубу на ввод, кран на мойку не шаровый, но наподбие — мгновенно перекрывает, манометр скачет (в норме 3 атм), теперь опасаюсь за трубу — не порвет ли? Что здесь можно предпринять? Думаю приладить что-то наподобие мембранного бака — сварить из куска 89-й трубы «бочку» на пару литров, и приладить её аки аппендицит — содержащийся в ней воздух должен бы амортизировать гидроудары.
Будет ли толк из этого?

У меня это явление прекратилось после установки редуктора на входе.

Если идти этим путем, то скорее это должен быть расширительный бак, закрытого типа мембраного типа самого маленького объема, который применяется для систем отопления. Но по-моему это слишком жирно.
Разрушительное давление металлопласта фирмы UNIPIPE: по холодной воде — 70 атм, по горячей — 40.

BigHarry написал :
У меня это явление прекратилось после установки редуктора на входе.

Угу: меньше давление — меньше скорость воды — меньше энергия удара.

BigHarry написал :
У меня это явление прекратилось после установки редуктора на входе.

Ну да, так и должно быть.

С уважением, Сергей

В состоянии ремонта МП труба к смесителю у меня тянется ничем не закрепленная по длине 3 метра. Опоры только по концам. Причем труба с небольшим изгибом. Так вот, при резком закрытии-открытии однорукого смесителя труба дергается. Причем это не прекратилось и после установки редуктора с давлением 3,5 бара. Разве это не гидроудар?

ao написал :
3 метра
…
не прекратилось и после установки редуктора

А почему должно было прекратиться, если у Вас резко перекрывается поток в тонкой длинной трубе?
Просто без редуктора поток при полностью открытом кране был ещё больше, а энергия удара пропорциональна квадрату скорости…

master&haos написал :
Ну дак а чего, редуктор на более низкое давление отрегулировать — не судьба? На сколько я понимаю вопрос, давление после редуктора должно быть несколько ниже, чтобы присутствовал эффект синхронности закрывания трубы, как бы с двух сторон сразу, к тому же — конструктив редуктора имеет пружинно-клапанно-мембранное исполнение, которое теоретически должно бы амортизировать удар. Конечно же, мои соображения верны только в том случае, если редуктор реально понижает давление… Кстати, а на входе, до редуктора — какое давление? -самое-то главное чуть не забыл спросить.

На входе, до редуктора 6-7 бар.
А зачем выставлять давление ниже 3,5 бар? Разве это много? При более низком давлении становится некомфорным пользование смесителями(долго ждать пока наберется емкость).

ao написал :
При более низком давлении становится некомфорным пользование смесителями(долго ждать пока наберется емкость).

Вы уж выберите, что для Вас важнее: время или безопасность.
Увеличьте сечение трубы, в конце концов…

ал99екс написал :
Поставил МП трубу на ввод, кран на мойку не шаровый, но наподбие — мгновенно перекрывает, манометр скачет (в норме 3 атм), теперь опасаюсь за трубу — не порвет ли? Что здесь можно предпринять? Думаю приладить что-то наподобие мембранного бака — сварить из куска 89-й трубы «бочку» на пару литров, и приладить её аки аппендицит — содержащийся в ней воздух должен бы амортизировать гидроудары.
Будет ли толк из этого?

Установка такого гидроаккумулятора конечно смягчит разрушительное влияние гидроудара, только такие аккумуляторы должны стоять после всякого резкозакрываемого крана.
И все таки, полностью компенсировать гидроудар они не способны.
Никакие регуляторы давления не в силах компенсировать гидроудар, возникаюхий при резком закрывании крана. Гидроудар имеет ВОЛНОВУЮ природу и простым снижением давления его не убить.
Кстати гидроудар возникает по ОБЕ СТОРОНЫ крана.
Единственным способом борьбы с гидроударами — ликвидировать их источник. Например поставить аммортизатор — замедлитель в системе закрывания кранов или заменить краны вентилями ( или задвижками ).

Старая ветка по этой теме: . Там же ссылки на другие ветки про компенсаторы гидроударов и редукционные клапаны в контексте МП разводки

ВТБ! написал :
Вы уж выберите, что для Вас важнее: время или безопасность.
Увеличьте сечение трубы, в конце концов…

Какой трубы? Гибкого шланга смесителя?
Важен оптимум.

ao написал :
Какой трубы? Гибкого шланга смесителя?

Трёхметровую МП забыли?

Nikolay написал :
Выход — установил т.н. компенсатор гидроудара, который представляет собой небольшой вертикально стоящий гидроаккумулятор ёмкостью 1.9 литра.

Есть модели шаровых вентилей с редукторным приводом.
Но гидроаккумулятор — самое универсальное и радикальное средство. И самое дорогое. 8-(

У гидроаккумулятора есть такой параметр, как макс давление?
Я так понимаю, что должен быть — иначе мембранна растянется до упора и эта посудина уже не будет компенсировать гидроудары.

2BV, Не мембрана растянется до упора (упора не будет до тех пор пока давление ниже того при котором воздух будет просачиваться сквозь сталь и резину) просто при давлении 10 бар лопнет стальной бак чесслово бывает

Чубчик,
да , вы абсолютно правы, я просто забыл про воздух :-).

А ни у кого нет картинки гидробака в разрезе?
Там мембранна где крепится и как она расположена при отсутствии давления воды и спущенном воздухе?

2BV, при отсутствии воды и спущеном воздухе , если это гидроаккумулятор с фланцем мембрана обычно слипается как воздушный шарик, если накачан воздух она прижата к фланцу. Если у вас а-ля расширительный бак (т.е. без фланца ) она там болтается как тарелка в центре, на распорном кольце.

Ну понапугали гидроударами теперь придется ставить что-то вроде ???
а хватит бака на 8л (квартира с колонкой, водопровод только холодный)

1. 

   1

   Shut off the main water valve. The main valve will be controlled by either a gate valve with a wheel or a ball valve with a long, straight handle. For a gate valve, turn the wheel clockwise until you can’t turn anymore. For a ball valve, turn the lever 90 degrees clockwise.^[2]
   

   • Usually the main water valve is located on a perimeter wall of your house, inside. It is usually at ground level, in a straight line from your outdoor water meter. It will not be located under a sink or next to your water heater, but could be behind an access panel.
   • In warm climates, the main water valve can be outside.

2. 

   2

   Open the highest faucet and drain water from the lowest faucet in your home. Open a faucet on the top floor of your home. Then, turn on a sink or valve on the lowest floor of your home, either the basement or the ground floor. This relieves the pressure in the pipes and drains the water.^[3]
   

   • Open both the hot and cold taps to fully drain the pipes.

   Advertisement

3. 

   3

   Turn the main water valve back on and listen to see if the problem is fixed. Once the water has completely drained, close the taps and then turn the main valve back on. Turn the valve of the main supply line counterclockwise to turn the water back on. Listen to see if the problem is fixed when you turn on the problem tap.

   • This works by draining any air chambers of water and replacing it with air. This cushions the pipes and helps prevent water hammer.
   • If the issue isn’t solved, you may have to have a professional install an air chamber, install water hammer arresters, or adjust water pressure reduction valves.

Advertisement

1. 

   1

   Determine what valve is causing water hammer. Water hammer occurs when a tap turns off. When you turn a tap turn off, listen for where the banging is the loudest to determine what supply line is causing the water hammer. This is the line where you will install a water hammer arrestor.^[4]
   

   • Washing machines and dishwashers often cause water hammer because they have automatic valves that close quickly.

2. 

   2

   Turn off the main water supply before installing arrestors. Arrestors work by providing an air cushion and absorbing shock when taps shut off.^[5]
   Turn off the water supply to your home before starting the install process. Find the main water supply and turn the valve clockwise to shut off the water. Then drain the pipes by opening a tap on the lowest floor of your home and letting it run until the pipes are empty.^[6]
   

   • The pipes need to be completely empty before installing an arrestor.

3. 

   3

   Install 2 arrestors, 1 on the cold water supply line and 1 on the hot. Installing arrestors on both supply lines will protect both pipes from damage from water hammer, even if you don’t hear them both banging. Whether using arrestors on washing machines or other taps, install them on both hot and cold taps.^[7]
   

   • Call a plumber if you don’t feel confident about installing arrestors.

4. 

   4

   Install a washing machine arrestor by screwing it onto the supply valve. An arrestor specifically used for washing machines will say «hose attachment» on the packaging and is designed to fit where the supply line attaches. Disconnect the water supply from the washing machine. Screw the arrestor onto the washing machine where the supply line was attached. Then screw the supply line onto the other end of the arrestor.^[8]
   

   • Measure the diameter of the washing machine supply line and make sure it is the same size as the arrestor’s attachment.
   • Remember which supply pipe is hot and which is cold when reattaching them.

5. 

   5

   Mark tap supply lines where you want to install arrestors. For taps other than washing machines, the supply line needs to be cut in order to install copper t-fittings and arrestors. Measure the diameter of the supply pipe and purchase a t-fitting that matches in size. Purchase an arrestor that will screw into the t-fitting. Hold the t-fitting up to the pipe and use a pencil mark the place where the t-fitting will attach.^[9]
   

   • Choose a place you can easily access, but where the arrestor will be out of sight, such as behind an access panel or in the basement.
   • There will be an indent about 1 inch (2.5 cm) into the t-fitting on either side. This is the place to mark on the supply pipe.

6. 

   6

   Use a pipe cutter to remove the marked section. Open the pipe cutter to a size that will fit the supply pipe by loosening the screw. Then slide the cutter onto the pipe and turn the screw to bring the blade into contact with the pipe. Rotate the cutter once completely around the pipe to cut it. If the pipe is thick, you may have to tighten the cutter and then rotate it around the pipe again.^[10]
   

   • You can also use a hacksaw, if you prefer, but a pipe cutter will give a cleaner cut.

7. 

   7

   Apply flux to the pipe where you cut it and slide the t-fitting on. Prepare to solder the t-fitting to the pipe by applying soldering flux for copper pipes. Flux facilitates soldering by allowing the metals to melt together while preventing oxidation. Apply flux where you will attach the t-fitting. Then slide the t-fitting into the pipe.^[11]
   

   • To make soldering easier, clean the pipe with an emery cloth where it attaches to the t-fitting.

8. 

   8

   Solder the pipe to the t-fitting and screw on the arrestor. Turn on the gas tank of a propane torch and light it with a lighter, if it’s a manual torch. Use the hottest part of the flame, at the tip, to heat the flux until it starts to bubble. Move the torch around so that it doesn’t heat one section up too much. Then, apply the solder to the opposite side of the pipe from the flame. The solder will melt right away, attaching the pipe to the t-fitting. Work all the way around the pipe with the flame and solder to seal it. Then, you can screw the arrestor onto the t-fitting.^[12]
   

   • You can use a small propane torch for this project.
   • Use safety goggles when soldering.

9. 

   9

   Repeat the process on the other side and turn the water supply back on. Once the arrestors are installed on both the hot and cold water supply lines, you can turn the water back on. From the main supply line, turn the valve counterclockwise.^[13]
   

   • Make sure the t-fittings are soldered all the way around the pipe and the arrestor is tightly screwed onto the t-fitting.
   • To regulate water pressure, make sure your pressure-reducing valve is set below 50 PSI. Adjust the valve by turning it clockwise or counterclockwise until the meter reads at below 50 PSI.

Advertisement

1. 

   1

   Identify where the pipes are banging. You can identify where the water hammer is happening by listening for where the banging is loudest. Take note of anywhere you might be able to add pipe straps or insulation to stabilize the supply lines. Either of these solutions will reduce vibrations and water hammer.

   • If there is a wooden beam nearby, you can strap the supply lines down.
   • If there is no support beam, you can cover the pipes with insulation.

2. 

   2

   Tighten loose pipe straps or add them to secure the pipes. Tighten any existing straps, if they are loose. If there is no strap where the pipes are banging, try installing one wherever the pipes are exposed, such as in your basement. For the most security, fasten a pipe strap around the pipe with a U-shaped strap at each floor joist and drill them directly into the drywall. ^[14]
   

   • Use metal or plastic pipe straps.
   • Avoid using galvanized or steel straps on copper pipes.

3. 

   3

   Add pipe insulation around the supply line to quiet them down. You can buy pipe insulation in foam tubes at a hardware store. Pipe insulation usually comes in a length of 6 feet (1.8 m) and is pre-slit down one side. Simply open the insulation up along the slit and fit it over the pipe at the point where it is banging. The insulation should snap into place. If the insulation is too long for the length of pipe that is exposed, cut it to a smaller size with a pair of scissors.^[15]
   

   • The extra cushioning will prevent the pipes from banging around and hitting the walls.

Advertisement

Advertisement

• You can call your municipal water supplier to check and reduce your water pressure. Lower water pressure reduces water hammer.

• Check for leaks after installing arrestors.

Things You’ll Need

• Water hammer arrestor
• Pencil
• Pipe cutter
• Copper t-fitting
• Flux
• Propane torch
• Solder

• Pipe straps
• Screws
• Screwdriver/power drill
• Pipe insulation

1. 

   1

   Shut off the main water valve. The main valve will be controlled by either a gate valve with a wheel or a ball valve with a long, straight handle. For a gate valve, turn the wheel clockwise until you can’t turn anymore. For a ball valve, turn the lever 90 degrees clockwise.^[2]
   

   • Usually the main water valve is located on a perimeter wall of your house, inside. It is usually at ground level, in a straight line from your outdoor water meter. It will not be located under a sink or next to your water heater, but could be behind an access panel.
   • In warm climates, the main water valve can be outside.

2. 

   2

   Open the highest faucet and drain water from the lowest faucet in your home. Open a faucet on the top floor of your home. Then, turn on a sink or valve on the lowest floor of your home, either the basement or the ground floor. This relieves the pressure in the pipes and drains the water.^[3]
   

   • Open both the hot and cold taps to fully drain the pipes.

   Advertisement

3. 

   3

   Turn the main water valve back on and listen to see if the problem is fixed. Once the water has completely drained, close the taps and then turn the main valve back on. Turn the valve of the main supply line counterclockwise to turn the water back on. Listen to see if the problem is fixed when you turn on the problem tap.

   • This works by draining any air chambers of water and replacing it with air. This cushions the pipes and helps prevent water hammer.
   • If the issue isn’t solved, you may have to have a professional install an air chamber, install water hammer arresters, or adjust water pressure reduction valves.

Advertisement

1. 

   1

   Determine what valve is causing water hammer. Water hammer occurs when a tap turns off. When you turn a tap turn off, listen for where the banging is the loudest to determine what supply line is causing the water hammer. This is the line where you will install a water hammer arrestor.^[4]
   

   • Washing machines and dishwashers often cause water hammer because they have automatic valves that close quickly.

2. 

   2

   Turn off the main water supply before installing arrestors. Arrestors work by providing an air cushion and absorbing shock when taps shut off.^[5]
   Turn off the water supply to your home before starting the install process. Find the main water supply and turn the valve clockwise to shut off the water. Then drain the pipes by opening a tap on the lowest floor of your home and letting it run until the pipes are empty.^[6]
   

   • The pipes need to be completely empty before installing an arrestor.

3. 

   3

   Install 2 arrestors, 1 on the cold water supply line and 1 on the hot. Installing arrestors on both supply lines will protect both pipes from damage from water hammer, even if you don’t hear them both banging. Whether using arrestors on washing machines or other taps, install them on both hot and cold taps.^[7]
   

   • Call a plumber if you don’t feel confident about installing arrestors.

4. 

   4

   Install a washing machine arrestor by screwing it onto the supply valve. An arrestor specifically used for washing machines will say «hose attachment» on the packaging and is designed to fit where the supply line attaches. Disconnect the water supply from the washing machine. Screw the arrestor onto the washing machine where the supply line was attached. Then screw the supply line onto the other end of the arrestor.^[8]
   

   • Measure the diameter of the washing machine supply line and make sure it is the same size as the arrestor’s attachment.
   • Remember which supply pipe is hot and which is cold when reattaching them.

5. 

   5

   Mark tap supply lines where you want to install arrestors. For taps other than washing machines, the supply line needs to be cut in order to install copper t-fittings and arrestors. Measure the diameter of the supply pipe and purchase a t-fitting that matches in size. Purchase an arrestor that will screw into the t-fitting. Hold the t-fitting up to the pipe and use a pencil mark the place where the t-fitting will attach.^[9]
   

   • Choose a place you can easily access, but where the arrestor will be out of sight, such as behind an access panel or in the basement.
   • There will be an indent about 1 inch (2.5 cm) into the t-fitting on either side. This is the place to mark on the supply pipe.

6. 

   6

   Use a pipe cutter to remove the marked section. Open the pipe cutter to a size that will fit the supply pipe by loosening the screw. Then slide the cutter onto the pipe and turn the screw to bring the blade into contact with the pipe. Rotate the cutter once completely around the pipe to cut it. If the pipe is thick, you may have to tighten the cutter and then rotate it around the pipe again.^[10]
   

   • You can also use a hacksaw, if you prefer, but a pipe cutter will give a cleaner cut.

7. 

   7

   Apply flux to the pipe where you cut it and slide the t-fitting on. Prepare to solder the t-fitting to the pipe by applying soldering flux for copper pipes. Flux facilitates soldering by allowing the metals to melt together while preventing oxidation. Apply flux where you will attach the t-fitting. Then slide the t-fitting into the pipe.^[11]
   

   • To make soldering easier, clean the pipe with an emery cloth where it attaches to the t-fitting.

8. 

   8

   Solder the pipe to the t-fitting and screw on the arrestor. Turn on the gas tank of a propane torch and light it with a lighter, if it’s a manual torch. Use the hottest part of the flame, at the tip, to heat the flux until it starts to bubble. Move the torch around so that it doesn’t heat one section up too much. Then, apply the solder to the opposite side of the pipe from the flame. The solder will melt right away, attaching the pipe to the t-fitting. Work all the way around the pipe with the flame and solder to seal it. Then, you can screw the arrestor onto the t-fitting.^[12]
   

   • You can use a small propane torch for this project.
   • Use safety goggles when soldering.

9. 

   9

   Repeat the process on the other side and turn the water supply back on. Once the arrestors are installed on both the hot and cold water supply lines, you can turn the water back on. From the main supply line, turn the valve counterclockwise.^[13]
   

   • Make sure the t-fittings are soldered all the way around the pipe and the arrestor is tightly screwed onto the t-fitting.
   • To regulate water pressure, make sure your pressure-reducing valve is set below 50 PSI. Adjust the valve by turning it clockwise or counterclockwise until the meter reads at below 50 PSI.

Advertisement

1. 

   1

   Identify where the pipes are banging. You can identify where the water hammer is happening by listening for where the banging is loudest. Take note of anywhere you might be able to add pipe straps or insulation to stabilize the supply lines. Either of these solutions will reduce vibrations and water hammer.

   • If there is a wooden beam nearby, you can strap the supply lines down.
   • If there is no support beam, you can cover the pipes with insulation.

2. 

   2

   Tighten loose pipe straps or add them to secure the pipes. Tighten any existing straps, if they are loose. If there is no strap where the pipes are banging, try installing one wherever the pipes are exposed, such as in your basement. For the most security, fasten a pipe strap around the pipe with a U-shaped strap at each floor joist and drill them directly into the drywall. ^[14]
   

   • Use metal or plastic pipe straps.
   • Avoid using galvanized or steel straps on copper pipes.

3. 

   3

   Add pipe insulation around the supply line to quiet them down. You can buy pipe insulation in foam tubes at a hardware store. Pipe insulation usually comes in a length of 6 feet (1.8 m) and is pre-slit down one side. Simply open the insulation up along the slit and fit it over the pipe at the point where it is banging. The insulation should snap into place. If the insulation is too long for the length of pipe that is exposed, cut it to a smaller size with a pair of scissors.^[15]
   

   • The extra cushioning will prevent the pipes from banging around and hitting the walls.

Advertisement

Advertisement

• You can call your municipal water supplier to check and reduce your water pressure. Lower water pressure reduces water hammer.

• Check for leaks after installing arrestors.

Things You’ll Need

• Water hammer arrestor
• Pencil
• Pipe cutter
• Copper t-fitting
• Flux
• Propane torch
• Solder

• Pipe straps
• Screws
• Screwdriver/power drill
• Pipe insulation